All stories
Dawn at the base of the towers
A 3 a.m. start, a headlamp and forty minutes of boulder scrambling — for about twelve minutes of red light.
Close to the ice at Grey Glacier
Kayaking among icebergs and touching a wall of ice older than most cathedrals.
A week on a Patagonian estancia
Horses, sheep, endless mate and the best lamb I have ever eaten.
Wind, bones and the open steppe
East of the mountains the landscape empties out, and the wind becomes the main character.
A stopover in California
Three days of granite and giant trees on the way south.
What I actually packed for six weeks in Patagonia
One 45-litre backpack, one camera bag, and the three items I wish I had left at home.
How to photograph in strong wind
Practical tricks for sharp pictures when the wind is trying to take the camera out of your hands.
What a month in Patagonia really costs
An honest breakdown of my spending — and where the money quietly disappears.
Developing black-and-white film at home
Less complicated than it looks, cheaper than a lab, and strangely calming.
My photo editing workflow without subscriptions
Free and open-source tools that do everything I need — from import to final export.
Survival Spanish for Patagonia
The phrases I used every day, and the local words nobody teaches in apps.
W Trek or O Circuit: which one to choose
Comparing the two classic routes in Torres del Paine after walking both.
Photographing people while travelling
How I ask, why I sometimes don't, and what I learned from the estancia crew.
Getting around Patagonia by bus
Long distances, border crossings and the art of sleeping upright.
35 mm or 50 mm: choosing one lens for travel
Why I keep coming back to a single prime lens, and how to pick yours.