Close to the ice at Grey Glacier
Kayaking among icebergs and touching a wall of ice older than most cathedrals.
From the water the glacier front looks almost artificial — a jagged blue wall, thirty metres high, that cracks and groans every few minutes.
On the second day we hiked up the valley to see where the ice comes from.
The blue colour comes from compressed ice absorbing red light. Up close it is surprisingly dirty, full of grit and tiny stones.
Tip: Waterproof gloves matter more than a waterproof jacket in the kayak.