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Dawn at the base of the towers
A 3 a.m. start, a headlamp and forty minutes of boulder scrambling — for about twelve minutes of red light.
Close to the ice at Grey Glacier
Kayaking among icebergs and touching a wall of ice older than most cathedrals.
A week on a Patagonian estancia
Horses, sheep, endless mate and the best lamb I have ever eaten.
Wind, bones and the open steppe
East of the mountains the landscape empties out, and the wind becomes the main character.
A stopover in California
Three days of granite and giant trees on the way south.
What I actually packed for six weeks in Patagonia
One 45-litre backpack, one camera bag, and the three items I wish I had left at home.